Cartagena

Hodophs insider tipRequest the courtyard table by the fountain - the most beautiful setting in Cartagena for dinner. The coconut rice with shrimp is the essential side dish. Go on a weekday — weekends bring more noise and slower service.

Hodophs insider tipStart the walk from the Café del Mar section near Baluarte de San Francisco Javier - the best sunset spot in the city. Arrive 45 minutes before sunset. The light on the colonial buildings at dusk is extraordinary.

Hodophs insider tipTake the early 8am boat to arrive before the day trippers. Book a private boat rather than the party catamaran. Bring reef-safe sunscreen - park rangers check and confiscate regular sunscreen at the water's edge.

Hodophs insider tipPlaza de la Trinidad on a weekend evening is one of the great neighbourhood scenes in South America. Grab an arepa de huevo from a street vendor (~2,000 COP) and sit on the church steps. Go before 9pm for the most authentic atmosphere.